Highlights:
From the main train station, cycle through the newer "street canyons" of the old town peninsula down to the Inn – to the Marienbrücke.
The bike route takes us in a loop through the medieval Passau Innstadt to the Roman Museum at the Boiotro Fort – a Roman highlight! The excavation site and museum make the world of the Romans in Passau tangible and provide key insights into the fascination of the "Danube Limes." Just let yourself be immersed ;-)
Tip 1: The bike racks are located in the direction of travel, seemingly behind the museum – so complete the Innstadt loop.
Tip 2: At the peak of the Innstadt loop, a short detour to the Church of St. Severin is worthwhile. Unfortunately, it is often locked.
"Mens sana in corpore sano" (= a healthy mind in a healthy body) – After the "mental" museum, the "physical" cycling fun begins. Briefly through an urban residential area, then, right after the railway crossing, we reach the tree-lined Danube bank. It's worth taking a detour to the water in the small park-like area – a wonderful view of the three rivers of Passau! The Inn, Danube, and Ilz can be beautifully distinguished by their different water colors. Did the watchmen of the nearby Boiodurum fort also ponder this play of colors?
We leave the Roman settlement area and follow the Danube Limes downstream – partly through quaint riverside forest, partly through urban commercial areas. At the municipal sewage treatment plant, a sign points to the excavation site of the "Roman Watchtower." This was part of the watchtower chain along the Danube Limes. Unfortunately, due to its location in an operational area, it can only be visited with prior arrangement. Tip: A model of this watchtower in the Roman Museum at Boiotro Fort illustrates its function.
With the border crossing into Austria, the landscape becomes more natural: We cycle into the deeply carved Danube Gorge of the "Upper Danube Valley" – one of the longest breakthrough valleys of the Danube at over 90 km! The steep southern bank is characterized by spruce forests, while the inaccessible steep slopes of the northern bank have preserved the last (!) large slope and gorge forests of Central Europe. The valley floor is filled by the mighty Danube. No wonder this valley was designated a European protected area! The comfortable bike path generally follows the Nibelungenstraße due to space constraints. Occasionally, it goes over small side roads across one of the few alluvial terraces. Enjoyably cycling downstream, breathtaking Danube and valley flank views, narrow passages, alluvial terraces, and castles fuel the spirit of discovery. In the flow of Danube cycling, the natural protective effect of the wide Danube becomes apparent – a wet Limes. Just as rest stops were important components of the Roman road network, so today Roman rest areas line the bike path. They offer various insights into Roman life: Danube border, customs, early Christianity, etc. A bit further, the mighty Jochenstein Power Plant impresses. It is essentially a tribute to Roman engineering: surveying technology, opus caementicium (Roman concrete), aqueducts, water wheels, mill wheels, etc. come to mind. It's amusing to realize that Roman concrete sometimes lasts longer than modern concrete ;-). Shortly after the power plant, a replica of a Roman milestone reminds us of the Roman road running nearby. It was not only an important military and trade route but also the retreat route for the last Romans of Passau on their way to Lauriacum (Enns).
The charming Danube market in Engelhartszell invites you to pause – almost at the midpoint of the stage. The historic facades in the town center tell of prosperity as a medieval toll station. The local Engelszell Monastery is famous for its breathtaking abbey church – a Rococo jewel of Austria! Tip: It’s a must-see. Afterward, the terrain gets hillier. The manageable ascents are rewarded with enjoyable descents. Next stop: "Burgus Oberranna" – a Roman highlight! A protective structure allows you to experience the excavation site of a unique Quadriburgus in Austria up close. It also shows that this fortification of the Danube Limes was by no means just a minimalist utility building. Lifestyle, a Roman fundamental right.
The final stretch of this stage continues to be hilly. Passing the old ferry point Wesenufer, we head to the final highlight – the famous natural wonder Schlögener Danube Loop and the Roman Park Schlögen! Here, the Danube changes its flow direction twice within a few kilometers by nearly 180°. The Romans recognized the strategic potential and built a fort (100 – 150 men) and a port at the first bend. The excavations in the Roman Park bring this fortification and life within it closer. A grand finale!
To make orientation easier for you, this themed cycle route has been signposted with its own cycle guidance system. There are adaptations for the Bavarian and Upper Austrian state cycle guidance systems.
Special note:
Attention! Cross the border between Upper Austria and Bavaria at Passau. Don't forget your passport!
With the crossing of the Inn, we not only move from the Roman province of Raetia to the province of Noricum, but also from the Gallic customs district (Atlantic - Inn) to the Illyrian customs district (Inn - Black Sea). This meant that inland customs duties had to be paid for transfer goods. This could be a lucrative business for the tenants of the customs stations. No wonder, then, that customs officers did not have the best reputation! Around 90 AD, the threat situation intensified and the Danube Limes was expanded. Here on the southern bank of the Inn, at the mouth of the Inn into the Danube, a second fort (300 soldiers) measuring around 14,000 square metres was built together with a surrounding civilian settlement. This took on the name Boiodurum.
From the middle of the 2nd century, a third, larger fort (1,000 soldiers) was built on the peninsula - Batavis. The Roman base grew steadily into an important shipping, transport and trading centre.
The Roman Empire began to crumble for the first time in the middle of the 3rd century: Internal battles weakened the empire and the Germanic tribes increasingly invaded the provinces. During this time, the Alemanni destroyed the two forts on the peninsula (Batavis + Ortsspitz), the fort on the southern bank of the Inn (Boiodurum) and the associated civilian settlements. The result: a reorganisation of the border defence! The number of troops in the forts was reduced, but quickly available auxiliary troops were installed in the hinterland. The forts were reduced in size but reinforced. Alternatively, the civilian settlements were relocated to the forts - fortified towns were born. Thus, at the end of the 3rd century, the massive fortress town of Batavis was built on the peninsula and the small castle-like fort of Boiotro on the southern bank of the Inn. Incidentally, Boiotro is a diminutive of Boiodurum. Well, the Romans also liked to joke.
In 476 AD, the Roman Empire collapsed with the deposition of the last Roman emperor, Romulus Augustulus. The Germanic tribes followed suit and took over supremacy. A world power full of light and shadow faded.
Severinus was active during this time of collapse. The Roman missionary had a small monastery built in Boiotro. The church of St Severin, not far from the fort of Boiotro, was probably built on its foundations. When Batavis could no longer be held militarily, he organised the retreat of the Roman population to Lauriacum (Enns). He was later canonised for his deeds.
Tip: Severinus of Noricum offers us very personal video insights into his turbulent times in three selected places!
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